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Kathy Bechtel Column; The Prosecco Zone - Exploring the Home of Italy’s Favourite Sparkling Wine

Kathy Bechtel Column; The Prosecco Zone - Exploring the Home of Italy’s Favourite Sparkling Wine

Kathy Bechtel is the Owner and Culinary Director of Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine, planning the culinary side of Italiaoutdoors tours, selecting restaurants, finding producers and leading cooking classes.  As part of a running series on Italian culture, Kathy will be producing a monthly guest feature for the De Luxe Series where she will share her passion for the regional nature of Italian cuisine highlighting the fascinating traditions and products with our readers, starting with The Prosecco Zone.
 
 
Lying north of Venice, amongst picturesque towns with ancient castles and churches, and vineyards taking up just about every square foot of land, is the Prosecco wine region, source of the wonderful sparkling wine that is served everywhere in Italy.  This lovely area of the Veneto lies in the foothills of the Alps, with terraced vineyards clinging to the sides of every possible slope.  For hundreds of years the locals have appreciated that their unique terrain affords the perfect combination of drainage, air currents and sun exposure for the production of these refreshing sparkling wines.  It is a beautiful region to explore by bike or foot, or combine with a visit to Venice or Verona, and remains off-the-beaten tourist path.
 
Prosecco has been produced for over 10 centuries in the foothills of the Marco Trevigiana in the province of Treviso, running from Valdobbiadene to Conegliano.   This area is home to multiple DOC wines zones, both the Prosecco as well as the lesser known Colli di Conegiliano wines.  The origins of wine cultivation in this area date back even prior to the Roman colonization in the 2nd century B.C.
 
This dramatic growth in popularity of prosecco in recent years has also brought to market many suppliers using the name “prosecco” who are not located in the traditional hill-region that produces the best grapes, and may not adhere to the same quality standards.  As happened with the French “champagne” sparkling wine, this dilution of the name “prosecco” has become a bit of a problem, as these lesser quality wines hit the market bearing the same name.  In an effort to combat this situation, a new quality designation was created specifically for the sparking wines from the original Conegliano to Valdobbiadene area – the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita.) This is the highest quality designation for Italian wines.  It is more strict than the DOC rating, with lower allowable yields, and an evaluation by a tasting committee before they can be bottled.  This DOCG region is comprised of 15 communes, of around 20,000 hectares.  The grapes are grown only on the sunny parts of these hills.  Right now, only 5,000 hectares of vineyards are entered into the official DOCG register. 
 
Proseccos from the surrounding areas in Veneto and east in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia are labeled Prosecco DOC.  Proseccos from other regions in Italy are labeled with the IGT designation, indicating more of a table wine, and display a wide range of quality levels.
 
The original Prosecco region centered around the steep hill of Cartizze.  As with all wine varietals; the more challenging the terrain - the better the wines.  Forcing the roots to dig deep for nutrients and water produces the best quality grapes for wine production.  The Prosecco from the Cartizze area, a small area of 106 hectares in the steepest hills of San Pietro di Barbozza, Santo Stefano and Saccol, is considered to be the best, the “Grand Cru” of Prosecco.  These grapes are the last to be harvested, as they are difficult to access.  The high quality of the grapes, combined with the lower yields and difficulties with cultivating here all contribute to the higher cost of these wines. 
 
I visit this region frequently, researching venues and wines for our bike and wine tours.  One of my favourite vineyards to visit is at the very top of Cartizze, along a spine that abuts the hill 400 meters above sea level, home of the Col Vetoraz winery.  Prosecco has been grown on this plot of land since 1838 by the Miotto family.  In 1993, descendant Francesco Miotto joined forces with Paolo De Bortoli and enologist Loris dall’Acqua to start Col Vetoraz.  They are quickly becoming a force to be reckoned with in this region filled with quality producers.  While there, don’t miss out taking a moment to enjoy the absolutely amazing panoramic view.  And try their Valdobbiadene Brut Prosecco DOCG, a wonderfully fresh, intense, dry prosecco - not surprising, given their enviable location. 
 
Another internationally recognised producer in the region is Adami.  Adami was started in 1920, when grandfather Abele purchased the vineyard.  Shaped as an amphitheater, and exposed to the south, its shallow calcareous soil is set on the under lying bedrock.  Now in the hands of grandsons Armando and Franco, their wonderful wines are exported worldwide.  I’ve found them fairly easily in the US, and I’ve enjoyed both the Garbel, as well as the Bosco di Gica.
 
One of my most memorable visits was to Col de Lupo (Hill of the Wolf), another prosecco winery that had not yet been on my radar.  They sell only to private clients, restaurants and agrotourismos.  They welcomed me on a Sunday, when most wineries are closed.  I was greeted warmly by Marco and his lovely wife.  They were incredibly patient with my minimal Italian, and chatted with me while I sampled a couple of their wonderful proseccos, accompanied by homemade snacks cooked up by Mom - grape focaccia and nice pastry. 
 
The Merotto winery is located in Farra di Soligno.  Their production facility is down in at the base of the hills, but their vineyards are located in a ring of hills surrounding Col San Martino, an ancient Lombard village north of Treviso.  While there, I tasted both the Bareta Brut, as well as their flagship wine, the Cuvee di Fondatore Giovanni Merotto.  Both fresh, dry, and flavourful, with a bit more yeast on the palate with the Cuvee.  Perfect apertif wines!
 
Throughout the prosecco region, you will pass through vineyards identified as belonging to Val d’Oca.   Val d’Oca is the Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene, a consortium of 600 growers who own 614 hectares here in the Prosecco DOC.  The Cantina itself is located in Valdobbiadene.  I’ve enjoyed the Val d’Oca Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG, as well as the the Millesimato Val d’Oca Extra Dry.  The Cartizze was awarded 5 Grappoli from the Duemilavini in 2010, while the Millesimato walked away with 4 grappoli.
 
For those with just a day or so to explore, there are a couple of places I recommend where you can visit for a tour and a tasting.  Ca’ Salina is a family-run operation in Valdobbiadene where you can enjoy a glass (or bottle) of prosecco while admiring a panoramic view of their vineyards from their hilltop location.  Fasol Menin is another winery that welcomes visitors, happy to show them their production facilities and vineyards, and introduce you to their wonderful wines.  Calling ahead is always advised.
 
Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine passion is creating uniquely personalised active adventures with a "twist".  Each distinctive programs is customised for your fitness goals and desired activity levels, and complemented by a focus on the food, wine, culture and history.  You can bike, hike, ski, or walk as you explore the Italian countryside
 
A two-person guide team consisting of ex-Army Ranger and recreational programming expert Vernon McClure, and avid cyclist, chef, and cooking instructor Kathy Bechtel.  The duo focus their energies on just a few select tours, perfect and personally lead, to provide an exceptional level of regional knowledge and an unforgettable authentic experience.  Small group size (usually 4-12 participants), together with a personal oversight and expertise enables Italiaoutdoors to adapt to make each tour the perfect vacation for each individual guest.
 
A selection of scheduled trips are available each season, specialising in creating unique, individually customised experiences for private groups.  Italiaoutdoors can move around, staying in your preferred type of accommodation, or come to your rental villa and offer programs.  None of the tours are outsources, ensuring a personally design and lead tour every time, as they believe your adventure deserves their direct attention.
 
After a successful career in telecommunications, Kathy Bechtel left the 9 to 5 world to follow her passion for great food and wine.  She completed WSET Level 1 training in 2002, and the following year enrolled in culinary school.  Kathy graduated at the top of her class, then worked as an intern for James Beard award winning chef, Jody Adams, assisting her in projects both inside and outside her restaurant, Rialto.
 
Kathy has catered, worked as a personal chef, developed and tested recipes, instructed cooking classes in regional Italian cuisine, and planned food and wine travel in Italy.  Over the course of her travels with Jody, Kathy met her current business partner, recreational programming expert and guide, Vernon McClure. 
 
Kathy develops and shares regional Italian recipes on her food blog, http://www.chefbikeski.com .  She has also designed and starred in cooking shows for the cable TV station WSKI at Sugarloaf, ME., and instructional videos on Italian cuisine soon to be shown on eHow.com.  On the fitness side, Kathy is an avid cyclist, participating each year the in Pan Mass Challenge, a 180 mile two day ride to raise money for cancer research.  She also is a full time, PSIA certified ski instructor on staff at Sugarloaf, ME.

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