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Costa Brava's Beaches

Costa Brava's Beaches

By Joseph Stevens

Home to some of the most beautiful Blue Flag beaches in the whole of Europe, soaring cliffs, secluded rocky coves, and seemingly endless stretches of vast, unspoilt coastline, the natural beauty of the Costa Brava (which literally translates as ‘rugged coast’) continues to resolutely transcend its now outdated reputation as a package holiday destination for sunburned Brits in search of sea and cheap sangria.  Although a few haphazard pockets of anglicised tourism do still exist in some of the larger resorts, these are far from representative of the region as a whole – drive a mere 50km beyond the holidaymaker hotspot Tossa de Mar and you will reach the stylish seaside town of Begur, a hidden treasure of the main coastal route that is a haven of outstanding restaurants, chic hotels and stunning, tranquil beaches.  Indeed, in the northern region of the coast you would be hard-pressed to find a pub-grub menu or any of the sun cream-and-sangria atmosphere that has typically characterised some of the southern resorts – only the wild beauty and the intoxicating, sun-seared landscapes that drew visitors in the first place. 

The whole region is more than just a pretty face of course: it is also a gastronomic paradise, with one of the highest concentrations of Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain and a number of truly exquisite locally-produced wines widely available.  The area is steeped in culturally rich art history, having been the home of surrealist Dali, and several outstanding museums – including his own home in Cadaqués – are devoted to him.  Just outside the picturesque seaside town of L’Escala lie the vast and impressive remains of what was once a Roman town (considered to be some of the most important archaeological ruins in Spain), and for those wishing to do more than simply sunbathe, there is golf, diving and sailing aplenty, as well as some of the most stunning coastal walking routes in the Mediterranean.  

However, the beaches will naturally be the main draw for most; there are no two stretches of sunny golden sand quite the same in this diverse region, and with over 300 beaches to choose from, the best ones are well worth knowing about!

Playa es Castell

Playa es Castell to the north of Palamos boasts the most pristine and unspoiled sands in the whole of Costa Brava, and is the beach that has perhaps most stridently opposed (and consistently triumphed against) development, with the locals first rallying against plans to build over it with a golf course in 1994.  Although far from deserted in summer, its popularity does not detract from its beauty: there are small, pine-tree concealed coves at either end of its sandy stretch, the waters are almost impossibly clear, and if you stroll up to the easternmost end of the beach, there is a fascinating ancient Iberian settlement to be explored.

La Cala Montjoi
 
The small and serene cove of La Cala Montjoi is located in the Natural park of Cap de Creus of Roses, and is famous for its calm waters and warm, dark sand.  An excellent spot for finding quality peace and relaxation away from the holiday crowds, it lies amidst some truly stunning mountain scenery, sheltered from the wind but reachable by car and within convenient proximity of nearby campsites and places for diving.  Intriguingly, it is overlooked by what was once the world-renowned El Bulli restaurant, described as ‘the most imaginative generator of haute cuisine on the planet’, which is now in the process of being renovated into the eagerly awaited ElBulliFoundation, and can still be seen perching enigmatically on the cliffs above. 
 
Beach Port Bo
 
Having won the coveted EU Blue Flag numerous years in a row for the exceptional quality of its waters, Beach Port Bo is a popular beach with excellent facilities including reputable restaurants, rented sun beds, showers and ample, accessible parking, making it the perfect place to take the whole family.  Each July it is also host to the famous Habaneras Festival (the festival of Sea Shanties): a fantastic event that is popular among both locals and tourists, with an infectious party atmosphere, it is one that should definitely be put in your diaries if your stay falls within the summer months – just make sure you arrive early to set up camp! 

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