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Roaming Around Venice

Roaming Around Venice

Only a short boat ride away from the frenzied flurry of the mainland, there lies a Venice few visitors get to sample. More than 100 islands are sprinkled across the region’s 212-square-mile ecosystem; each with their own character and charm. From lace making to lonely lagoons, glass jewellery to graveyards, these lesser known parts of the destination really do offer something for everyone. Transport can be taken by vaporetto, public water bus or private motor boat taxi, with a range of options from single journeys to 12 hour boat tickets allowing for a lengthier exploration of the islands. We have handpicked just a few of the finest, arranged in the order boats take from the mainland so that you can plan your well-deserved day of escape.
 
San Michele – Cemetery Island
 
Drifting in from the placid waters, visitors to this island will be in awe of the imposing walls that tower over the surrounding lagoon. San Michele was chosen to become a cemetery in 1807 – when it was declared that burial on the Venetian mainland was unsanitary – and bodies were transported from the mainland on unique funeral gondolas.Although an enlargement is underway, space is at a premium on the island, and those wishing to be buried here are only guaranteed a few years rest before being moved on to an ossuary.
 
Visitors can observe a number of important figures laid to rest here, from composer Igor Stravinsky to author Ezra Pound. Amongst the marble tombs and mausoleums are poignant reminders of fond memories, as ornaments, toys and photos make for a moving experience. The gentle swaying of cypress trees is often the only sound that can be heard, providing the area with a profound peacefulness.
 
As the church of San Michele is closed at lunchtime, we suggest making the cemetery your first stop of the morning. Whether thoroughly immersing yourself in the site’s vast majesty, or just spending a quiet moment in the walled suntrap of the Orthodox area, San Michele provides an intriguing addition to the Venetian landscape.
 
Murano – The Glass Island of Venice
 
A collection of islands connected by bridges across the lagoon, Murano is well known for its production of the iconic Murano glass. Visitors cannot fail to be enraptured by the sheer variety of products on offer, as everything from miniature ornaments to opulent chandeliers glint from the numerous shop windows along the front.
 
Despite being centuries old, the traditional Murano technique continues to be used today, and boasts some of the most important brands in the world such as Venini and Seguso. However, with this reputation comes deviance, and in order to avoid being sold cheap Chinese counterfeit glass, it is important that acquirer’s look for the protective ‘Vetro Murano Artistico’ trademark.
 
Alongside the many retail opportunities, there are also some striking cultural sights. For lovers of art, try the Church of Saint Peter the Martyr, which was built in 1506 and houses art works by Bellini. Inspired by architecture? Then Campo Santo Stefano is for you. Hosting both the Church of St. Stephen with its picturesque 19th Century clock tower, and an unusual abstract blue glass starburst sculpture just metres apart in the middle of the square, this really is a fusion of the ancient and modern. On a visit to the ‘Glass Island of Venice’ your (Murano) glass will most definitely be half full.
 
 
Burano
 
Next stop by water is the smaller island of Burano, a charming fishing village with vibrant buildings and a real community feel. A true feast for the eyes, arriving at the island is like entering a toyshop town, as each individual house is painted a different colour. Unsurprisingly, the area is hugely popular with artists, who take inspiration from the government dictate that demands only certain harmonious shades be used for each particular lot. Wander along the water’s edge and watch local fishermen ply their trade, or seek out the infamous Oblique Bell Tower, whose eccentric slanting angle has intrigued visitors for centuries.
 
As Murano is associated with glass, its sister island also holds strong production values. Burano Lace has been in high demand since the 16th Century, when elderly ladies began embroidering by their lace pillow (tombolo). Visitors to the island today can meander through winding alleyways, as intricate lace tablecloths flap outside the white washed buildings. Those wishing to purchase lace are spoilt for choice, with the most popular items like lace fans and bedspreads coming in a variety of different shapes and sizes. Locals are warm and friendly, and are often known to invite passersby to come into their shops and marvel at the artisan lace working.
 
Torcello
 
One of the most tranquil and sparsely populated areas in the Venetian region, Torcello offers an ideal opportunity to relax and reenergise in a verdant haven. The island itself was founded in the 5th Century, and was known long before the mainland as an influential trading centre. Evidence of this still remains, with grand structures such as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Dell’Assunta, Santa Fosca Greek cross church, an imposing bell tower and mansions aplenty. Now the island is home to just 25 permanent residents, who have preserved many of the ancient stone structures such as Attilia’s Throne and the extraordinary Last Judgement mosaic in a small museum.
 
Torcello remains largely unspoilt, and for this reason has proved a welcome retreat for the creative. Ernest Hemingway was reputed to have spent time there in 1948, composing parts of his works Across the River and Into the Trees. Looking out across the abandoned canals, it is easy to see why the island was so inspirational, as spending an afternoon watching the lazy boats chug up the lagoon, perhaps with a picnic is the ultimate way to dream, imagine and unwind before heading back to the Venice that is so popular today.
 

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