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Vientiane- The Fresh Market Experience

Vientiane- The Fresh Market Experience

By Morven Smith

Exploring the largest fresh market in Vientiane is a great starting point for discovering Lao cuisine.  Very early each morning the vendors arrive from the countryside on the outskirts of Vientiane to sell their produce.  Watch as the locals purchase red chillies, lemongrass, galangal, coriander, kaffir lime and mint.  Then you begin to understand that Lao cooking is fresh, healthy, a little spicy, but always interesting. 
 
Market stalls are packed with rice; steamed rice and most importantly Khao Niaow - sticky rice are on display.  As you stroll through the market and the air becomes pungent you will notice tubs of fermenting fish.  This is Padaek - Lao fish sauce which is used in many Lao dishes and gives Lao cuisine its distinctive taste. 
 
For the adventurous there are many tasting experiences available at this market.  Look out for Khao Tom - sweet bananas and sticky rice cooked in a banana leaf, or Khao Jii -sticky rice dipped in egg and placed on a bamboo stick then barbecued. 
 
 
Morven and Nook are the creative duo behind Lao Experiences Cooking Course & Food Tours.  Their philosophy is to create experiences that highlight the beauty of Lao food and culture.  During the cooking course traditional methods and cooking implements are introduced.  The setting, outdoors in the garden on a quiet stretch of the Mekong River, adds to the relaxed ambiance of this half day cooking course.  The course presentation is a mixture of hands on preparation, demonstrations and lively stories about Lao life, culture and food.
 
“Our third menu has been inspired by a visit from Luke Nguyen, Australian TV chef and travel host,” Morven said.  “Nook shared her knowledge of local recipes with Luke in Vientiane, Luang Prubang and in southern Laos.  In Vientiane a delicious Mekong River fish - Ping Pa, encrusted with salt and stuffed with dill and lemongrass, then barbecued, was filmed at the fresh market for TV audiences.”
 
Nook who is originally from Luang Prubang is passionate about Lao cuisine and is keen to share her knowledge and culture with others.  She enjoys meeting visitors from around the world on her food tours and sharing the culinary secrets of this small city.  During the Lao cooking course Nook explains the secrets of making Khao Niawo - sticky rice, and demonstrates the correct eating etiquette.  She said: “A small amount of sticky rice is removed from the bamboo basket with your fingers and squeezed to make a ball.  You then dip the rice into Jeow - Lao dipping sauces or other dishes to eat.  To indicate you have finished eating just close the lid on the sticky rice basket.”
 
Lao Coffee
 
A favourite experience in Vientiane is to sit with the locals drinking Lao coffee with a green tea chaser.  Grown on the Bolaven Plateau in southern Laos, this coffee is highly regarded for its quality and taste.  Ask for Café Lao Hon, as this coffee is prepared the traditional way; filtered through a sock like bag just before serving, and presented in small glasses with sweetened condensed milk.  Mix it up and sip.  Café Lao Hon is black, strong and smooth to taste. 
 
Laap is Laos’ national dish and is served for good luck, especially during Lao New Year.  This dish consists of finely chopped meat, fish or chicken.  It is flavoured with lemongrass, mint and other herbs.  Chillies and lime juice also add to the freshness of this dish. 
 
Vientiane Street Food
 
As evening descends in Vientiane you’ll notice mobile carts begin to arrive and set up in any available space.  Look for barbecued Mekong River fish - Ping Pa or chicken - Ping Gai.  Tied to split bamboo sticks and cooked over charcoal fires this cooking method gives food a distinctive smokey flavour.  Enjoy watching the skill required as Tam Mak Houng - spicy Lao papaya salad is prepared with precision using a mortar and pounded with a pestle.  Create a memorable Lao meal by eating these dishes together.  Then just add sticky rice and an award winning Beerlao, and you are eating like a local.
 
Morven and Nook can be contacted at +856 209553097 or alternatively via email at lao-experiences@hotmail.com. For more information, go to: www.lao-experiences.com

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